Mill buildings, Woodford House, 21 Woodford Avenue, Dromara, Dromore, Co Down, BT25 2AA

Former Flax Mill Complex, Woodford House, Dromara, County Down

This extensive former flax mill complex lies east of the approach avenue to Woodford House, on the left bank of the River Lagan, approximately one mile northwest of Dromara, County Down. It has the distinction of being the highest water-powered industrial site in the Lagan Valley. The complex originally comprised eight separate blocks of buildings, all associated with the processing of flax and related industrial activities. Significant demolition has taken place since approximately 2014, and as of 2022 only parts of Block 4 (Buildings 4A, 4B and 4C), the chimney of Block 6 (Structure 6D), Building 3, and Block 8 remain standing. The loss of so much of the original fabric means the surviving structures fall below the threshold for statutory listing, despite the historical importance of the site as a whole.

HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

Bleaching appears to have been established on this site during the 18th century by the Black family, certainly by 1758. A bleach green is marked in this location on Williamson's 1810 map of County Down, and Samuel Lewis, writing in 1837, described it as an extensive and flourishing bleachworks. The first Ordnance Survey six-inch map of 1833 captions a bleach mill a short distance east of Woodford House, on the site of what became Building 1A. However, the first Valuation book of the 1830s recorded the premises as being nearly in a state of dilapidation. At that time the complex comprised two boiling houses, a beetling mill, a wash house and a drying loft. The two 14-foot diameter waterwheels had not been in regular use for nine years. The owner was Mrs Martha Black, and it is thought the death of her husband may have caused operations to cease. The bleachworks is not mentioned in the Ordnance Survey Memoirs for Dromara Parish, confirming it had long been disused.

The 1859 six-inch map shows the bleach mill in the same configuration as before, and the 1861 Griffith Valuation describes the premises simply as house and offices, indicating the mill was still out of use. By that time Mrs Black had apparently married David McCartney, who is recorded as owner of Woodford. By 1865 the Valuation revision books record that William Dodd had taken over, and the premises are now described as house, offices and scutch mill, with a rateable valuation of £40. A second scutch mill is noted in the entry for 1885, and both are recorded as working four months in the year. The property passed to Robert Dodd on the death of his father in 1896, though the 1901 and 1911 census records describe Robert as a farmer with no mention of flax scutching. However, flax scutching may have been continuing under the auspices of the Co-operative Flax Society of Dromara. A parliamentary question of 13 March 1906 noted that the Society was operating a flax mill at Dromara — almost certainly this site — and that it was also engaged in the preparation of flax seed. The Department of Agriculture had been funding a flax expert for the previous five years to advise the Society but was withdrawing its support.

Woodford passed to Robert's son William in 1911. He appears to have substantially expanded flax scutching operations, as a number of sizeable buildings captioned as flax mill appear on the 1919 Ordnance Survey map. This expansion probably took place around the time of the First World War to meet increased demand for flax. According to historian Harry Gribbon, a 38 horsepower Gordon turbine operating on a 13-foot head was installed by the Fibre Corporation in 1913 for flax scutching, followed by a second turbine of 11 horsepower on a 7-foot head the following year. This suggests William was trading under the name of the Fibre Corporation and that the principal expansion took place in 1913, on the eve of the war. The premises were used for a series of experiments on the drying of flax seeds and fibre in the mid-1930s. In 1939, additional flax scutching and retting capacity was added at the south end of the site with the construction of a steam-powered scutch mill, boiler room, chimney and retting tanks. The site was being operated at this time by the Dromara Flax Company. According to the present owner, the mill complex ceased working in 1959. Writing in 1963, Rodney Green noted the disused remains of a beetling mill with an in-situ water turbine.

DEMOLISHED STRUCTURES

The following buildings had all been demolished by the time of the 2022 survey, having been lost since approximately 2014: Buildings 1A, 1B, 1C, 2, 4D, 4E, 4F, 4G, 4H, 4I, 5, 6A, 6B, 6C, 6E and 7.

Block 1 occupied the northwest corner of the mill complex and comprised three buildings formerly associated with linen bleaching and flax scutching.

Building 1A was the original water-powered bleach mill, probably of 18th-century date, aligned north to south along the west side of the block. It was subsequently converted to flax scutching in the mid-19th century and later to animal sheds, becoming derelict over time. It had a pitched corrugated metal roof, largely collapsed or missing, with vestiges of circular metal exhaust vents along the ridge, and half-round asbestos-cement rainwater goods. The walls were of random rubble, cement-rendered in places, with square-headed openings and replacement timber- and metal-framed windows. The doorway into the north end was accessed via a concrete footbridge over a tailrace running along the west side of the building. A single-storey addition with a monopitched corrugated metal roof and brick walls abutted the middle section on the west side, leading into a turbine room.

Building 1B was a single-storey, three-bay flax scutching mill aligned north to south at the north end of the block, partly abutting the north gable of Building 1A. It first appeared on the 1919 Ordnance Survey map and probably dated from 1913 to 1914. It had a pitched corrugated metal roof with a slightly raised ridge, brick walls with segmental-headed openings, and no rainwater goods. The principal entrance on the north gable had been raised with a steel head and concrete blockwork, flanked on each side by a circular electric fan exhaust duct. Doors were of sheeted tongue-and-groove construction, and a cast-metal multi-pane window survived on the south gable.

Building 1C was a tall single-storey, single-bay building aligned north to south, partly abutting the east side of Building 1A, and probably a former workshop. It also first appeared on the 1919 map and probably dated from 1913 to 1914. It had a pitched corrugated metal roof, brick walls, double-leaf metal-sheeted sliding doors on the south gable, and square-headed 6-by-3-pane steel-framed windows along the top of the west wall, but otherwise no openings.

Block 2 was a large three-pile, single-storey timber building along the south side of the headrace, east of Block 1. It was formerly used for retting flax, drawing water from the adjacent headrace, and first appeared on the 1919 map, probably dating from 1913 to 1914. It was notable for its multiple timber bowstring trusses supporting curved corrugated metal roofs aligned north to south, with a raised louvred ridge ventilator to the middle pile. It was considered of particular special interest on account of these Belfast trusses. Walls were of timber framing over a mass concrete base course with horizontal timber sheeting, with square-headed openings, timber-framed windows and louvred vents along the sides. A vehicular entrance at the south end of the west elevation had a sliding corrugated metal door and a pedestrian entrance was at the southeast corner. A small single-storey ante-room with a pitched corrugated metal roof, brick walls and an entrance doorway on the north gable stood at the west end of the north elevation. Rainwater goods were of asbestos-cement.

Of the structures within Block 4 that have since been demolished, Building 4D was a single-storey building aligned east to west abutting the south side of the south pile of Building 4C, probably erected in the 1940s or 1950s. It had a flat concrete roof, concrete block walls with external pilasters, and square-headed timber-framed windows. A small open yard to the west contained a single-storey brick toilet.

Building 4E was a double-pile building aligned north to south, east of Building 4D, with curved corrugated metal roofs, asbestos-cement rainwater goods and cement-rendered walls. A large sliding metal-sheeted door occupied the west end of the north elevation, which appeared to be a later extension in concrete blockwork. Abutting the north elevation was a later single-storey lean-to with a corrugated metal roof. Abutting the east and south elevations was a single-storey building of probable 1940s or 1950s date with a monopitched corrugated asbestos-cement roof, cement-rendered concrete block walls and a large doorway at the north end of the east side. The west elevation was partly abutted by several very derelict single-storey lean-to buildings with cement-rendered walls. All window openings had concrete cills.

Building 4F was a detached single-storey, three-bay building aligned east to west at the southwest corner of the block, probably of 1940s or 1950s date and used as a shop, office and store. It had a pitched natural slate roof with a rendered brick chimney to the middle, cement-rendered concrete block walls, sheeted timber doors, and timber 3-by-1-pane casement windows with concrete cills.

Building 4G was a tall single-storey, single-bay former workshop aligned north to south on the south side of Building 4A. It had a pitched artificial tile roof, brick walls with gabled eaves to the west elevation, a doorway on east and west elevations, and metal-framed multi-pane windows with concrete cills to the east gable and along the south elevation at high level. Abutting the south end of the west gable was a small single-storey, single-bay former blacksmith's forge with a pitched corrugated metal roof and cement-rendered walls. The north elevation of the main section was linked to Building 4A by a pitched corrugated asbestos canopy beneath which a steam engine had formerly stood, of which no traces survived.

Building 4H was a tall single-storey boiler house aligned east to west, south of Building 4B. It had a flat concrete roof raised at the east end, brick walls, and all openings with flat reinforced-concrete heads and concrete cills. A large doorway in the west gable was surmounted by a metal-framed 6-by-3-pane window, and metal-framed windows sat at high level on the south and east elevations. Several extensions abutted the north side.

Structure 4I was a free-standing circular chimney at the southeast end of the boiler house, standing to its full height. It tapered all the way to a multi-course brick corbelled top, which was missing in places. Some brickwork on the sides was heavily weathered and metal bands were used for securing. A lightning conductor projected above the top, and a brick flue from the adjacent boiler house was visible at the base.

Block 5 was a detached single-storey, single-bay Dutch barn situated just north of Block 6, probably of mid-20th-century date and used for agricultural purposes. It had a curved corrugated metal roof and timber-framed walls all clad in corrugated metal sheeting. A maker's plate above the doorway in the middle of the south elevation read: "Erected by R. Jefferson, Ltd, Lisburn."

Block 6 occupied the southwest corner of the site and was probably erected in 1939 for the retting and scutching of flax, first appearing on the 1975 Ordnance Survey map. It comprised four buildings and a chimney.

Building 6A was a two-storey, single-bay building aligned east to west along the north side of the block. It had a flat concrete roof with a raised cement-rendered middle section from which seven circular vents projected, with further vents along the roof to the south of the raised section. Walls were of brick with square-headed openings, timber doors, and metal-framed multi-pane windows, all with concrete heads and cills. The east end was cut into the slope, with the first floor accessible by a concrete footbridge. An external metal staircase on the north elevation formerly provided additional first-floor access; only its cantilevered concrete balcony survived. The north elevation also had a first-floor loading door at the west end.

Building 6B was aligned east to west along the south side of Building 6A and was contemporary with it. It was sub-divided into a tall bay running east to west along its north side, and four small contiguous two-storey rooms along its south side. The north bay had a flat concrete roof with a hipped glazed skylight. The concrete roof over the rooms along the south side doubled as the floor of an open water tank enclosed by cement-rendered side walls, fed by a pipe from Building 6C. Walls were of large pre-cast concrete blocks rendered with cement, with square-headed openings. Entrance was at the west end of the north bay; each of the rooms along the south side was accessed by sliding doors. The upper sections of these rooms were only accessible from inside.

Building 6C was a single-storey building over a semi-basement, single-bay, at the southeast corner of the block. Its flat concrete roof doubled as the bottom of a water tank enclosed by cement-rendered side walls. Walls were of cement-rendered concrete with square-headed openings, including a timber tongue-and-groove door on the south elevation and metal-framed casement windows to the east elevation. The semi-basement was accessed by external concrete steps on the north elevation, which also had a door and metal-framed window.

Building 6E was a small detached single-storey two-bay toilet block aligned north to south at the west end of Block 6, contemporary with the rest of the block. It had a flat concrete roof, cement-rendered walls, and metal-sheeted doors and metal-framed casement windows to each bay on the east elevation.

Block 7 was a small block of single-storey rendered concrete block animal sheds located just east of Block 6, of later 20th-century date, with monopitched roofs and cement-rendered concrete block walls.

EXTANT STRUCTURES (AS OF 2022)

Building 3 is a detached two-storey, two-bay building, probably of late 19th or early 20th century date, aligned north to south along the east side of the access lane to Woodford House and latterly used as a mill office. It has a pitched natural slate roof and half-round metal rainwater goods. The gables and ground floor walls are of random rubble, while the upper sections of the side walls are of whitewashed brick. There is a pair of tongue-and-groove doors to the west elevation and a partly glazed door to the east side. Timber-framed windows serve both floors, with 2-by-3 and 2-by-2 pane fenestration. An open-sided porch along the east elevation leads to a small single-storey weigh room with a pitched corrugated metal roof, concrete block walls and timber-framed casement windows. A drive-on weighbridge is set into the ground adjacent to the weigh room. The north gable is partly abutted by a small single-storey, two-bay annex with a pitched natural slate roof and random rubble walls.

Building 4A is a double-pile, red brick, single-storey building aligned north to south at the northwest corner of Block 4, contemporary with Building 4B with no wall break between them. A narrow single-storey annex abuts its east side. It was probably used for storage and latterly as a farm outbuilding. The main section has shallow pitched corrugated asbestos-cement roofs, while the annex has a flat concrete roof. Rainwater goods are of asbestos-cement. The walls are of brick, though part of the west elevation is clad with corrugated metal sheeting. There are square-headed openings, a sliding metal door to the west elevation, and an infilled doorway to the north gable of the east pile. Multi-pane metal-framed windows to the north gable of the west pile have exposed steel heads and concrete cills.

Building 4B is a double-pile, single-storey building aligned east to west in the middle of Block 4, contemporary with Buildings 4A and 4C with no wall break. A narrow single-storey annex partly abuts the east side of the north pile. It was probably originally used for storage and latterly as a farm outbuilding. The main section and annex both have shallow pitched corrugated metal roofs, and rainwater goods are of plastic. Walls are of brick, cement-rendered in places, with square-headed openings. The north elevation has a pair of large sliding metal-sheeted doors, two pedestrian doors — one with a segmental brick relieving arch over — and three multi-pane metal-framed windows, one of which is infilled; the windows have exposed steel heads and concrete cills. There is also a door and window to the west gable of the south pile, the apex of which is clad with corrugated asbestos-cement sheeting. The south elevation of the south pile was formerly open but has been infilled with concrete blockwork.

Building 4C is a double-pile, two-storey building aligned east to west, east of Building 4B, and contemporary with it, with no wall break. It was latterly partly used as a store. It has pitched natural slate roofs and half-round metal gutters. The brick walls have an advanced eaves course. All elevations except the north and south first-floor faces have segmental concrete heads indented to mimic stone voussoirs; the north and south first-floor elevations have flat concrete heads. Doorways are on the east gable, one to each pile. A metal staircase up the east gable leads to a cantilevered metal balcony giving access to the first floor of the north pile, though the treads have disintegrated and the first floor is no longer accessible. Timber-framed multi-pane windows throughout have concrete cills, with 2-by-2, 3-by-3 and 4-by-2 pane fenestration. Window openings on the west and south elevations have been infilled. The now-demolished Building 4D formerly abutted the south side of the south pile at ground floor level.

Structure 6D is a free-standing octagonal chimney standing to its full height between the sites of the former Buildings 6B and 6C. It tapers all the way up to a corbelled top, above which sit concrete blocks, possibly a continuation of an internal lining. A lightning conductor projects from the top. The flue from the adjacent boiler house enters at the base.

Block 8 is a large double-pile, single-storey store prominently situated atop a drumlin to the southeast of the mill complex, aligned east to west. It was probably erected in the 1940s or 1950s. It has pitched corrugated asbestos roofs with half-round asbestos-cement rainwater goods. The cement-rendered concrete block walls have external pilasters along the north and south sides. There is a large metal roller shutter door on the west gable of each pile and a small 3-by-3-pane metal-framed window to each apex. Small louvred vents appear on the east gable apexes, but the building is otherwise devoid of openings.