Glenarm Castle, (off Straidkilly Road), Glenarm Demesne, Glenarm, Ballymena, Co Antrim, BT44 0BD

Glenarm Castle is a grand three-storey country mansion in the 'Jacobethan' style, taking its present form in 1825 when architects Richard and William (Vitruvius) Morrison of Dublin remodelled an earlier double-pile Palladian block built in 1756 by Christopher Myers. The castle is the ancestral home of the McDonnell Earls of Antrim and stands at the northern end of a large demesne, with the Glenarm River immediately to the east and the village of Glenarm just beyond it.

HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

The site has a long history of occupation. From at least the 6th century, the north-east of Ireland and the western seaboard of Scotland shared close cultural and population ties, rooted in a common Gaelic culture and language. In 1399 a political link was formalised when Hebridean lord John Mor McDonnell married Margery McEoin Bisset, heiress to The Glens of Antrim. The McDonnells were a branch of Clan Donald, descendants of Somerled, lord of Argyle, who had wrested the southern Hebrides from Norse overlordship in the mid 12th century. By the late 14th century the head of the clan, the Lord of the Isles, ruled much of the western seaboard of Scotland as a semi-autonomous kingdom. When King James IV of Scotland quashed the Lordship of the Isles in 1493, many Hebrideans crossed to the McDonnell stronghold in The Glens, and over the following century the centre of McDonnell power gradually shifted from the Hebrides to Antrim. This brought the family into prolonged conflict with the Tudor government, which regarded them as agents of the Scottish crown and as a potential advance guard for a larger Scottish invasion of Ireland. Despite having overrun much of Antrim by the mid 16th century, their claims to formal recognition as Lords of The Glens were long resisted, only being acknowledged by Queen Elizabeth I in the 1580s. Their position was finally secured after the union of the English and Scottish crowns in 1603, when King James VI and I formally granted The Glens and The Route — the former McQuillan lordship in north Antrim — to Sir Randal McDonnell.

Sir Randal's royal grant required him to construct a residence befitting his status in each of the four baronies of his estate. Three were already served by Dunluce Castle, Clare Park at Dunaynie in Cary barony, and Clough Castle in Kilconway. In the remaining barony of Glenarm there had been a castle — possibly a glorified tower house — since the mid 13th century, but in 1597 it was 'broken'. The ruins, believed to have stood within the village near the south end of Toberwine Street roughly where the former courthouse now stands, were left as rubble, and in or shortly after 1603 Sir Randal began constructing a new house a short distance to the west, on the other side of the Glenarm River. This new residence was added to right up until Sir Randal's death in 1636, by which time he had become Viscount Dunluce and 1st Earl of Antrim. In 1642 Monro's Covenanting army burned what was described as a 'pleasant house', though for much of the following century its fate remains uncertain. Most accounts suggest it was largely abandoned and left ruinous, but Richard Dobbs, writing a short description of Glenarm in 1683, implies that at least part of the building was still fit for occupation at that date and retained a slated roof. By 1752 it appears to have been abandoned again: Dr Pococke described it as 'an old house with good room in it, without a roof'.

The present building's story begins in 1756 when Alexander McDonnell, the 5th Earl, following the decay and destruction of his other residences including Dunluce, decided to make Glenarm his principal seat and commissioned Christopher Myers to 'rebuild' the house. What this rebuilding entailed and how much of the original early 17th century structure survived into it is uncertain, as no plans or drawings of the pre-1750s building are known to exist. The building that emerged after 1756 is well documented in illustrations, which show a large three-storey double-pile block with Palladian windows and quadrant wings in matching Palladian style. An inscribed stone on the front elevation reads: 'Rebuilt by Alexander the present Earl in the year 1756'. Alterations were made in 1783 by the 6th Earl, which evidence suggests included construction of much of the east wing. It has also been argued that these works may have included the 'gothickisation' of the north facade in a manner similar to Castle Ward, which might explain visitor Charles Abbott's description of the house as being 'in bad taste'.

The building remained in its late 18th century form until 1824–25, when Anne Katherine, Countess of Antrim in her own right, and her husband Edmund (Phelps) McDonnell, commissioned Richard and William (Vitruvius) Morrison to remodel the facade in the current Jacobethan style. This work added the dome-capped corner turrets, gabled and battlemented parapets, gothic window openings, the entrance porch, and part of the service wing to the east. The so-called 'barbican' gate was also erected next to the bridge just east of the castle at this time, along with towers overlooking the river. The Morrisons' original proposals, now held at the Public Record Office of Northern Ireland (PRONI), show that they had initially intended all of the windows to be flat-arched — more in keeping with the mid to late 16th and early 17th century character of the facade — but this was later amended to include gothic openings.

In 1929 an accidental fire gutted much of the interior, including the double-height hallway. Reconstruction was carried out to designs by Imrie and Angell of London, with decorative work added to the hallway and other rooms by Angela, Lady Antrim. It was at this stage that many of the windows were altered to their present flat-arched Georgian style, which, somewhat ironically, aligned with the Morrisons' original intention. A further accidental fire in 1966 badly damaged the service wing to the east, leading to the demolition of most of it the following year. What remained — principally the large kitchen — was remodelled by Donald Insall.

EXTERIOR — GENERAL CHARACTER

The building possibly incorporates fabric from the early 17th century house, though this is uncertain. The main block is essentially cube-like and relatively compact, with a large wing to the east that is partly two storeys and partly single storey. This wing dates from around 1783 and was enlarged in 1824–25; it was originally considerably larger, incorporating the servants' quarters, but these were demolished after the 1966 fire. The front elevation is in sandstone; the remainder of the building is in a mixture of sandstone, render, and rubble. The Jacobethan character of the building is defined by corner turrets crowned with Tower of London-like stone-faced domelets with finials and weathervanes, gabled parapets, tall chimneys, and the large entrance porch. The windows throughout are generally flat-arched Georgian-paned sash windows, though originally many appear to have had gothic arch openings or gothic-headed frames.

SOUTH (FRONT) ELEVATION — MAIN BLOCK

The front elevation of the main section of the house is symmetrical. At ground floor centre is a large single-storey flat-roofed porch in dressed sandstone, set on a plinth with steps to the front. The front corners of the porch have three-quarter octagonal corner pier-columns which rise above roof level to form tall pinnacles. The lower portion of each pinnacle is fluted, while the narrower upper portion has a screw-thread pattern and an ogee-like cap. Spanning between the pinnacles and the wall of the main house is a relatively tall parapet arranged in three gables to the front and two to each side, with lattice-pattern piercing throughout. Each gable is topped with a small finial.

The front face of the porch has a large central doorway set within a Tudor arch opening, with large sidelights set in semicircular-headed openings. The door opening and sidelights are separated by tapering Tuscan-like pilasters with mainly fluted shafts, with similar pilasters to the outer ends of each sidelight. Above all three openings is linked label moulding with lion-head stops. The doorway itself has a mainly glazed double timber door with Georgian-style panes and panelled aprons. The Tudor arch fanlight has Y-tracery and a margin with five panes. The sidelights are similar in style but with semicircular fanlights. Directly above the doorway is the moulded coat of arms of the Earl of Antrim, with two relatively plain quartered shield mouldings set in recessed panels above the sidelights. The east and west faces of the porch each have two relatively narrow windows, similar to the sidelights but without aprons, with linked label moulding and a moulded shield in a recessed panel above each window.

To either side of the porch, set within the main house wall, is a single tall flat-arched sash window with Georgian panes (12 over 12; all windows have sash frames and Georgian panes unless otherwise stated). Both of these windows originally had gothic arch openings but were altered following the 1929 fire. At first floor level, directly above the porch, are three semicircular-headed windows with Georgian-paned fixed-light frames, which help light the double-height hallway. To either side of these windows are pilasters rising from the junction of the porch and the main elevation; these pilasters match the three-quarter columns at the porch's front corners and rise above the main parapet to form pinnacles in the same manner. Beyond these pilasters, to both left and right, is a single squarish sash window (8 over 8).

At first floor level there are three groups of three small sash windows (all 4 over 4), with each window in each group separated by a stone mullion. Immediately above these windows is a string course that also functions as a label moulding. The front elevation of the main block is crowned by a tall parapet in the form of three gables of the Irish tower house variety, topped with moulded coping and finials or pinnacles. The central gable bears the Earl's coat of arms, with plain shields to the outer gables.

The front elevation is framed by projecting corner turrets that rise a full storey above parapet level. These turrets are square in plan at ground and first floor levels and octagonal above that, capped with stone-faced domelets with finials and weathervanes. Just below each domelet is a decorative lattice or diamond-pattern course. To each outer face at ground floor level — with one exception noted below — there is a tall narrow window-like recess with label moulding and stops. The exception is the first floor east face of the east turret, which has a much deeper semicircular-headed recess that helps light a window in the east wing. At first floor level the arrangement is similar. At second floor level there is a similar but semicircular-headed recess to the south facet of the east turret and to the south and west facets of the west turret. At the uppermost level there is a tall semicircular-headed recess to all facets. At each floor level there is a narrow string course, and at the base of the turrets is a bevelled plinth.

WEST ELEVATION — MAIN BLOCK

The west elevation is considerably plainer than the front. Apart from the turrets it is entirely rendered and is partly exposed at basement level. At basement level there are four windows: that to the far left appears to have a casement opening; the two to the centre are double sash windows each 4 over 4 with a rendered mullion; and that to the far right is a single sash (4 over 4). At ground floor level there are five large evenly spaced windows, as at the front. At first floor level there are three shorter windows (8 over 8), with a window-sized recess at the far left and far right of this floor. Before 1929 the ground and first floor windows had gothic openings, and the first floor appears to have had five windows. At second floor level there are five squarish windows (8 over 8), all with plain sandstone dressings; those at second floor level have label moulding. Above the second floor is a narrow sandstone string course, above which rise two large shaped Flemish-style gables, each topped with a conjoined grouping of four tall stone chimney pots with caps. The turrets at either end of this elevation are as described above.

NORTH ELEVATION — MAIN BLOCK

The north elevation is much like the west, though the window spacing differs slightly and there are five windows at first floor level. The basement windows are all of similar size and all appear to have casement openings. The parapet differs from the west in having three smaller and plainer gables similar to those at the front but smaller, each with a finial or pinnacle, with broad battlements between them. The battlement between the left and middle gable is a stepped Irish battlement; the remainder are plain. The parapet has sandstone coping with a sandstone string course below it. The turrets are as elsewhere, except that the left (east) turret has sash windows at first and second floor level to the north (1 over 2 and 1 over 1 respectively) rather than the usual recesses, and its east face is blank.

EAST ELEVATION — MAIN BLOCK AND GABLED PROJECTION

The east elevation of the main block is largely concealed: to the left it is abutted by the east wing, and to the right there is a full-height gabled projection. The east elevation itself is only exposed at parapet level, where the parapet appears to match that of the west elevation.

The gabled projection to the right (north) is in snecked undressed rubble with dressed sandstone to the openings. It has a stone-coped crow-stepped parapet from which rise three tall conjoined stone chimney pots. To the north face of the projection there is a window at ground floor level (6 over 6), with a tiny semicircular-headed window (1 over 1) set at an intermediate level above it. At first floor level there is a window matching that at ground floor, with a squatter window at second floor level (8 over 4). To the east-facing gable of the projection there is a basement-level doorway with a recent door to the right. Directly above this doorway, at an intermediate level between ground and first floor, is a small window (3 over 3). To the left side of the gable at first floor level is a large semicircular-headed window with Georgian panes. Above this at first floor level is a taller but similarly shaped window with decorative geometric tracery that appears to be of mid to later 19th century date. At second floor level is a shorter semicircular-headed window with thick stone tracery forming two semicircular-headed lights (with 2 over 1 frames) and a roundel above. The south face of this projection appears to be wholly blank.

In the narrow section of the east facade of the main block exposed between the projection and the east wing, there is a pair of windows at basement level with modern frames and a similar-sized pair at a low ground floor level (both 4 over 4). At first floor level, set further to the left, is a larger semicircular-headed window with Georgian panes, above which is a small window (approximately 8 over 8) appearing to be set within a small flat-roofed dormer.

EAST WING

The east wing is a complex structure. Where it adjoins the main house to the west there is a largely rendered two-storey gabled section with a battlemented parapet and a square bay. To the east this merges with a plain single-storey hipped-roof section, also largely rendered. To the rear (north) it links to a tall rubble-faced two-storey hipped-roof block that is canted to the north side. The east end of the wing originally included a substantial L-shaped one-and-a-half-storey gabled section with gabled half-dormers that housed the servants' quarters. This was badly damaged by fire in 1966 and demolished the following year. The present single-storey portion — the original kitchen — is all that remains of this section. To the north and east of the east wing the ground level is considerably lower, exposing the basement.

The south (front) elevation of the two-storey portion of the east wing is largely rendered with alternating in-and-out sandstone quoins. At its centre is a shallow full-height square bay in sandstone. At ground floor level the bay has three tall pointed-arch lights separated by narrow stone mullions, each with a Georgian-paned sash frame and Y-tracery to the uppermost frames (7 over 6, 5 over 8, and 7 over 6). At first floor level are three similar but shorter lights (all 5 over 4). Between ground and first floor the bay has a decorative moulded frieze course with small shields and other ornament, with a similar-sized course with lattice decoration above the first floor windows. The bay is topped with regular battlements with decorative panels. To the left of the bay is a small first floor window (3 over 6). To the right of the bay at ground floor level is a small semicircular-headed window (4 over 2) with label moulding, and at first floor a similar but taller and narrower window (4 over 4). The battlemented parapet continues in plainer form to either side of the bay.

The small exposed section of the north elevation of this part is rendered. Basement and ground floor levels are contained within a lean-to. At basement level there are two windows (both 6 over 6) set close together to the left. At ground floor level are two more widely spaced windows of the same type, with a single matching window at first floor level.

The east gable of the two-storey portion of the east wing is largely rendered. To the right at ground floor level the gable is abutted by a small single-storey gabled link section connecting to the larger single-storey hipped-roof section to the east. This link has a window to its south face (8 over 8) with label moulding. A pier stretching up the gable from this link suggests it was originally two storeys. To the right at first floor level there is a small semicircular-headed window (approximately 4 over 4). The uppermost portion of the gable is in undressed rubble rising to a crow-stepped parapet topped with two tall conjoined stone chimney pots.

The south elevation of the single-storey portion of the east wing is rendered. To the left is a large Georgian-paned window with 24 panes and label moulding over. The east elevation of this section is one and a half storeys in scale and rendered, with a segmental arch-headed recess to the right. To the left of this recess a set of stone steps leads through a timber-sheeted doorway set within a high screen wall to the forecourt. The rear (north) elevation, also one and a half storeys in scale, is mainly in rubble and has a very large tripartite window (6 over 8, 12 over 16, and 6 over 8) set within a segmental-headed opening. A stone chimneystack rises from the east side.

The tall two-storey block with basement at the rear (north) side of the east wing is largely in rubble with alternating sandstone quoins. To the north it is canted. The central and broader facet of the north side has a small three-pane window at basement level. Both this central facet and the outer ones are rendered at basement level, with large segmental-headed door-like recesses to the outer facets. At ground floor level the central facet has a triple-light window with sandstone mullions (all frames 6 over 4); at first floor level there is a similar window (6 over 6). To the east face there is a window at basement level with a nine-pane fixed frame and sandstone surround, and a similar window at basement level on the west face with another window at first floor level (6 over 6). The south face is only exposed at first floor level and is blank. The first floor windows are set on a narrow sandstone sill course. Both the east face and the broad north facet rise above eaves level into a small gable; the north gable has a small shield on it. The south face rises into a chimneystack with three conjoined pots.

ROOFS

Behind the parapets of the main block is a double-pile gabled roof that appears to be wholly slated. The south section of the roof has two conjoined chimney pots to the east of centre of the ridge and a single pot to the west of centre. The north section appears to have three conjoined pots to the west of centre. The roofs of the various sections of the east wing are also all slated. Cast iron rainwater goods are used throughout.

RETAINING WALLS AND SETTING

To the immediate east of the house the ground drops sharply. Looking westward from this lower level, there is a relatively tall retaining wall which also served as the base of the walls of the north-east section of the former service wing. These walls are in rubble, battered in profile, and at the south end there is a small projecting section that was once a stairwell tower. To the south of this there is a stone flight of steps with a decorative balustrade.