Wilmont, Lady Dixon Park, Belfast

Wilmont House is a detached, two-storey Italianate country house with a basement, built around 1859 and attributed to Belfast architect Thomas Jackson (1807–90), though no contemporary documentation confirming his involvement has been found. It stands within a 134-acre parkland demesne on the west side of Upper Malone Road, now known as Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon Park. The house is listed for its group value alongside its gate lodge, former stable block, and walled garden. The grounds are bounded by the M1 motorway to the west, Upper Dunmurry Lane to the northeast, and the Lagan navigation to the southwest.

Origins and Historical Background

The Wilmont estate has its origins in 1757, when John Stewart of Ballydrain leased 54 acres at Old Forge from the Donegall estate. His younger son, William Stewart (1735–1808), obtained a separate lease of 29 acres at neighbouring Drum Bridge and established a small estate in the area, naming it "Wilmont" — apparently a play on his own name. By 1767 he is described in records as being "of Wilmont", and the property is marked by name on Taylor's and Skinner's road map of 1777. Stewart was involved in the linen trade and operated a bleach green on the estate from at least 1784 until 1815. He is also recorded as selling trees, crown glass, Welsh slates, and the hardwood lignum vitae, and grew carrots on a large scale in the early 19th century.

After William Stewart's death in 1808, the estate passed to his eldest son John, who accumulated large debts before dying without issue in 1829. The house was unoccupied, passed to John's brother James Stewart, and came into the hands of the Court of Chancery in 1837. In 1844 it was mortgaged to the Northern Bank. In 1847, Belfast brewer Alexander McKenzie Shaw leased it, planted over 21,000 trees in the grounds and carried out repairs to the house. He purchased the estate outright in 1855 but was forced to sign it back to the Northern Bank the following year due to debts exceeding £12,500.

Shortly afterwards, Wilmont was leased to one of the bank's directors, and later chairman, James Bristow (1796–1866). Bristow found the estate more akin to a large farm than a gentleman's demesne and immediately set about transforming it. He demolished the old house and built the present one on slightly higher ground to the north, redirected the main drive, added a gate lodge and walled garden, and laid out formal gardens close to the house. Notably, the new house was built as a pair of non-identical semi-detached dwellings: James Bristow occupied one half and his son James Thompson Bristow (c.1826–77) and family lived in the other, with separate north and south entrances. James Thompson Bristow succeeded his father to the Wilmont estate and the chairmanship of the Northern Bank upon the latter's death in 1866. He died in 1877, leaving a minor as heir, and the estate was placed in the hands of trustees.

In 1879–80 the trustees leased the estate to Robert Sturrock Reade (1837–1913), who later acquired it outright around 1897. Reade was a great-grandson of Robert Stewart (1742–97), a younger brother of the original William Stewart of Wilmont. A prominent figure, Reade served as chairman of the York Street Flax Spinning Company, President of the Flax Spinners Association (1888–94), President of the Flax Supply Association (1893–1905), and President of Belfast Chamber of Commerce in 1881 and 1906, as well as a Justice of the Peace and Deputy Lieutenant for Belfast. His principal contributions to the estate appear to have been the construction of a new rear drive and gate lodge, and a shaded walk to the north of the walled garden. Reade died in 1913 and his son George sold the estate in 1919 to Sir Thomas Dixon (1868–1950) and Lady Edith Dixon (1867–1964).

Both were prominent public figures: Sir Thomas served as High Sheriff for County Antrim in 1912 and County Down in 1913, Lieutenant of Belfast, and Mayor of Larne (1939–41). Lady Edith was created a Dame of the British Empire after the First World War in recognition of her work with the forces. Wilmont was one of three properties owned by the Dixons, the others being Drumadarragh near Doagh and Cairndhu outside Larne. The Dixons are believed to have made extensive changes to the interior around 1920, removing walls that had formed part of the original semi-detached arrangement. In 1934 Wilmont served as the temporary residence for the Governor of Northern Ireland after Government House at Hillsborough was damaged by fire, and during the Second World War the house served as headquarters for US forces stationed in Northern Ireland.

In 1959, Lady Dixon handed the 134-acre estate to Belfast Corporation for use as a public park. The new Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon Park and Playing Fields was officially opened in April 1963, with the house — converted to an old people's home — opening a few weeks later. A children's playground was added to the south, with car parking to the north. In 1964 the park was selected as the setting for a rose garden to the west and northwest of the house; the first trials took place in 1965–66, and Belfast Rose Week was inaugurated in 1975. The rose garden area was redeveloped in the late 1980s, reopening in July 1990. Subsequent changes to the park have included the demolition of some outbuildings and the conversion of the remaining stable block to a tea shop, the demolition of the northern gate lodge and its replacement with a modern bungalow, and the renovation of the children's playground. Wilmont House itself closed as a nursing home in the early 1990s and ownership reverted to Belfast City Council. At the time of the listing record (March 2017) it had yet to find a permanent use.

Architectural Character and Materials

The house is built in red brick in Flemish bond with buff-pink Giffnock sandstone dressings, and sits beneath a hipped natural slate roof with heavy overhanging eaves and several tall chimneystacks. The composition is asymmetrical, with the main block to the west, largely rectangular on plan, abutted by a lower U-shaped return to the east that forms a central courtyard, and a three-storey corner tower to the northeast. The house was originally two semi-detached dwellings with separate north and south entrances; 20th-century alterations by the Dixon family around 1920 and subsequent conversion to a nursing home around 1960 mean it no longer reads as such, though interior decorative features and joinery remain largely intact.

The house is noted in the valuation of 1862 as "a red brick house, very well built with stone eaves." A small plan in the margin of that valuation does not show the porch to the north nor the projection to the south. The southern single-storey projection sits awkwardly next to one of the entrances, breaks up the symmetry of the main block, and is faced in noticeably different brick. Photographic evidence suggests it was added after around 1913, and it does not appear on any Ordnance Survey map until 1938. The eastern range of the rear service section also appears to be a later addition, though documentary evidence suggests it may have been added relatively soon after the house was first completed. The north porch is also thought to be a later addition; the glazing suggests a date of around the 1890s or early 1900s. Much of the Neo-Classical interior detailing may have been introduced by the Dixons, though it appears stylistically closer to around 1890–1900. The conversion to an old people's home in the early 1960s brought further internal subdivision of rooms.

Roofs and Rainwater Goods

The main block has a roof hipped on all four sides, with a lower central platform carrying a flat-roofed lift shaft. A slated curved roof covers the bay to the west. A small gabled dormer sits to the east near the southeast corner. There are seven chimneys in total on the main block: two each to the south, east, and west sides, all of rectangular plan, centred on the ridge and symmetrically placed; and one further chimney rising from the eaves to the east. The return roof is hipped on three sides with an open courtyard to the centre, and a square hipped-roof tower to the northeast. The return has six chimneys: one tall external stack to the south side of the courtyard; two at the tower; one centred on the ridge of the south wing; one square on plan at the southeast hipped corner; and one rising from the eaves at the east wing. There is partial in-fill at the courtyard, which appears to be flat-roofed. All chimneys are red brick in two stages with moulded sandstone between stages, a cornice with a plain band below, and octagonal yellow clay pots, unless otherwise stated. The chimney near the hipped junction at the east side of the roof has three to four courses of grey brick below a projecting sandstone cap.

Rainwater goods are in cast iron, with ogee gutters and circular-section downpipes. The overhanging eaves are finished with a painted plain cornice band at eaves level (possibly stone) with a profiled lower edge, moulded timber brackets, a painted timber soffit, and an eaves board supporting the cast iron gutter. At the return, the eaves projection is shallower than at the main block and there is no cornice or brackets.

Windows

On the main block, windows are single-glazed double-hung sliding sashes: flat-arched at ground floor with 2/2 panes, and segmental-arched at first floor with 6/6 panes. On the return, windows are also single-glazed double-hung sliding sashes, flat-arched with 6/6 panes to the south, 6/3 panes to the north, east, and courtyard elevations, and 2/2 panes at attic level in the tower, with round-arched fanlights above.

South Elevation

The south elevation comprises the main block to the left (west) and the return to the right. The main block is largely symmetrical, with a central entrance flanked by three windows each side at ground floor; those to the left are bowed and contained within a single-storey projection with a balcony over (a later addition). At first floor, a single window to the centre is flanked by two openings each side, with those nearest the centre being narrower with 4/4 panes. French doors replace a window above the flat-roofed projection, though the original surround remains. Storm glazing is fixed to the lower sashes at the single-storey projection. Openings generally align between ground and first floors.

Sandstone dressings to the south elevation include toothed quoins at the east and west corners of the main block and of the single-storey projection; a moulded base plinth; a string course between ground and first floors and between the cills at ground floor windows; moulded window surrounds, cills, and brackets; and apron panels below ground floor windows. The entrance door surround is entirely of sandstone, with ashlar walling, a moulded round-arched opening at the double doors (timber framed, six-panelled, with a plain fanlight), a projecting keystone and moulded impost, a string course above the arch, and a cornice. There is an indented roundel to the right of the arch; the left side is abutted by the single-storey projection, resulting in an uneasy juxtaposition. Three concrete steps lead to the entrance.

The return on the south elevation is markedly lower, with eaves set just above the first floor level of the main block. A grass bank descends to a path at basement level, with hedging along the upper edge. The basement has randomly spaced openings, all bricked or boarded up. Five windows each appear at ground and first floor, equally spaced, aligned, and offset slightly to the west; those second from the left are boarded up. The easternmost bay has notably different brickwork, suggesting the eastern wing is a later addition. Dressings are confined to ground and first floor and are plainer, with toothed quoins to the east and square-cut window surrounds with a matching string course between the cills stepped up at the far east. The south elevation of the tower has its roof and eaves detailed as the main block; the attic above has a pair of round-arched windows with a string course as on the north and east faces. A wall-mounted cast iron bell is fixed next to these windows.

North Elevation

The north elevation comprises the main block to the right (west) and the return to the left, including the tower block. The main block is symmetrical, with overhanging eaves and sandstone dressings as described on the south elevation. A projecting porch with a raised parapet and Renaissance balustrade is centred at ground floor, with a single window to the west and a tripartite window to the east; there are three equally spaced openings at first floor. A carved stone roundel adjacent to the entrance bears the initials "JB" for James Bristow. Double entrance doors sit within a segmental-arched opening at the west face of the porch, opening onto a level access platform with concrete steps and a ramp fitted with modern metal handrails and uprights. The porch is now painted but is thought to have originally been ashlar sandstone. A tripartite window is centred on the west face, with delicate leaded and stained glass to the lower panes. There are twin rectangular-plan chimneys centred on the ridge, each with three pots.

The return on the north elevation is four bays wide, recessed between the main block and the tower, and is detailed as the south elevation of the return, including windows and surrounds. The three-storey tower is similarly detailed, with toothed quoins and an additional floor comprising twin round-arched windows to the centre, with a shared cill and continuous string course at impost level, sandstone arched heads, and keystones. The tower roof and eaves are detailed as the main block. At ground floor, a later flat-roofed building enclosing plant equipment abuts the tower; this is of little historic interest.

East Elevation

The east elevation is the most utilitarian in character. The three-storey tower stands to the right (north) and a three-bay-wide return to the left. The tower is detailed as on the north face, including quoins above eaves level at the return; a single opening at first floor is largely concealed by ivy. An adjacent porthole window was observed from inside the building; plans also indicate two windows at ground floor, though these were not seen. The return is detailed as the south elevation, with three equally spaced windows at first floor. At ground floor there are three openings aligned with the windows above and one additional smaller window; the window at the far south contains a flush door opening onto a bridge that spans the basement well. This small window has 4/2 panes and the adjacent window to the south has 1/1 panes. The bridge is formed in steel with tubular metal uprights and handrails, all painted, with concrete steps and a raised kerb adjacent. The remainder of the grassed bank has a mature hedge along its upper edge. Openings to the basement are randomly placed with soldier-coursed brick headers. Three chimneys are present: one near the southeast corner at the hipped roof; a second rising from the eaves between windows with two pots; and a third at the southeast corner of the tower.

West Elevation

The west elevation is symmetrical, with a full-height bowed bay to the centre and formally arranged openings. The bay has three windows at each of ground and first floor, flanked by single windows. The ground floor windows at the bay and the window to the north are embellished by decorative carved timber pelmets set flush with the outer face of the reveal, painted. Dressings include plinth, quoins, window surrounds, string courses, and overhanging eaves, as described on the south elevation. The basement is not exposed at this elevation, though some Scrabo rubblestone is visible below the plinth at the north corner. The plinth, string course, and toothed quoins continue at the west side of the single-storey flat-roofed projection, though the brick here is slightly different and shows notable cracking along the line of the rainwater pipe. The west face of the north porch has a segmental arch with timber-framed panelled double doors (replacements) and a moulded panel above.

Courtyard

Access to the courtyard was not possible at the time of survey; observations were made from views through first floor windows. Windows appear on all four sides of the brick walls, informally arranged, predominantly with 3/6 panes at basement level, 4/2 panes at ground floor, and 6/3 panes at first floor where seen. There is a large red brick external chimney stack. An external metal escape stair descends to the basement with fire exits at the upper floors.

Setting and Grounds

The house is surrounded by a tarmac path and lawns enclosed by mature trees. Brick and sandstone walling survives intact at the northeast corner and at the south entrance; elsewhere walls and steps have been replaced in concrete. A path from the south leads to a yew walk with a cast iron gate and a raised pond with a dressed stone surround and crown centrepiece. The walled garden lies to the southwest of the yew walk. Some remains of the outbuildings survive to the southwest of the house, now substantially altered with modern accretions used to store park maintenance equipment; the basalt stone walls have strap pointing, and the hipped roof and multi-paned windows have been replaced with natural slate and timber frames. The interior at ground floor has been largely modernised as a café.

At the northernmost entrance to the park on Upper Malone Road, red brick and reconstituted stone pillars and walling mark the gate screen; embossed bronze plaques dated 1959 commemorate the donation of the park by Lady Dixon to Belfast Corporation. The original gate lodge at this entrance has been demolished and replaced with a modern bungalow, with modern gates. The southernmost entrance on Upper Malone Road retains its gate lodge and leads to a car park with the remains of the former stable block, now converted to a café and offices.

The grounds are bounded by the M1 motorway to the west, Upper Dunmurry Lane to the northeast, and the Lagan navigation to the southwest. A former lock-keeper's house of 1756 sits at the extreme southwest on the Lagan towpath, and although it no longer falls within the current park boundary, the former estate workers' dwellings known as Wilmont Cottages mark the northwest corner of the historic demesne.