Church Of St Andrew

This parish church represents successive building campaigns from the 13th century through to around the later 15th century, with restoration undertaken in 1871. The church is constructed of rendered stone rubble with granite and volcanic stone dressings, beneath gable-ended slate roofs. Two probably 19th-century lateral cylindrical stone chimney stacks are positioned to the side of the north transept and north chapel, and at the west end of the south aisle.

The present layout comprises a nave, chancel, long north and south transepts, north chapel, south aisle, west tower, and south porch. The earliest surviving feature is a Norman font, indicating that a church probably stood on this site from at least that period. Architectural elements such as lancet windows and nook-shafts to some internal window openings suggest that portions of the fabric may date from the 13th century. The church was likely extended and partially rebuilt around 1333 when Sir William de Ferrers founded an arch-presbytery. While the cruciform plan may reach back to the 13th century, debate surrounds whether the north chapel and tower are equally early. Stylistic evidence from the chapel's tomb indicates it is no later than the early 14th century, and the tower is pre-Perpendicular. The south aisle was added around the late 15th century, with the porch probably contemporary. Apart from the insertion of some very late Perpendicular windows, no substantial alterations occurred until the 1871 restoration. Further restoration was underway in 1985–86, including a new roof.

Exterior

The small single-stage unbuttressed west tower features a corbel table at the top, battlemented with four crocketed finials. Its west doorway is probably original, constructed of volcanic stone, heavily moulded with a four-centred arch and an arched hoodmould with labels. Attached to the tower on the south side is a small lean-to which reuses a similar but smaller doorway with double hollow chamfer. At the west end of the nave on the north side of the tower stands a 13th-century granite lancet with cusped head.

The north side of the nave has an early Decorated Y-tracery two-light window to the right. To its left is a very late Perpendicular three-light granite window with round-headed lights, with moulded mullions and jambs, and an arched hoodmould above. The west window of the transept is of Beer stone, three lights in the geometrical style of the Decorated period, though it may have been partially restored. The large three-light north window of the transept has reticulated tracery of volcanic stone. On the east side of the transept is a small volcanic stone chamfered doorway to the right with a basket arch, probably inserted in the 16th or 17th century. To the left is a three-light Decorated window with trefoiled tracery and a quatrefoil above cusped lights. The window to its left has reticulated tracery similar to that at the north end of the transept.

On the north side of the chancel are two identical 13th-century two-light windows with cusped lancets and a quatrefoil above. The north chapel projects at right angles from the chancel and has a window on its end wall composed of a mixture of granite, volcanic stone, and sandstone—somewhat restored—with intersecting tracery. The very fine early 14th-century east window in granite comprises five lights with intersecting tracery; some mullions have been restored. Wide buttresses with shallow offsets flank either side.

The south aisle windows are all Perpendicular, of three lights in granite and volcanic stone. The aisle has blocked a window on the east side of the transept, of which the blocked arch and hoodmould remain visible. In the angle between aisle and transept, part of a stair projection in granite ashlar can be seen, which housed the rood stairs. The south transept has shallow set-back buttresses at the corners. Its large south window is similar to the north transept, of four lights with reticulated tracery of the Decorated period in granite; its mullions have been restored. The west window of the transept is very late Perpendicular with four round-headed lights.

The two-storeyed south porch has a wide four-centred arched granite doorway, triple-chamfered. Above it is a small granite-framed round-headed light.

Interior

The interior is very fine, with features surviving from all main building phases. The porch has a good wooden ribbed ceiling, richly moulded with carved bosses, displaying the arms of the Ferrers family: three horseshoes. The south doorway is of granite with an acute four-centred arch and hollow, double roll, and hollow moulding. The internal walls are covered with 20th-century render.

The nave has a six-bay granite arcade to the south aisle, with two arches to the chancel set considerably lower. All have four-centred heads. The piers have Pevsner type-A mouldings which run up into the arches, and deep moulded capitals. A similar four-centred chancel arch is present. The north transept arch is probably early 14th century, built of Roborough stone with a lower, more acute four-centred arch, heavily moulded, with jambs consisting of three shafts, each with a shallow moulded capital.

In the chancel, the east window has nook shafts inside with a moulded four-centred arch above. The windows on the north side of the chancel have chamfered rear arches. Also on this wall is a heavily moulded two-centred granite arched doorway. On the south wall of the sanctuary is a trefoil-headed piscina, adjoining which is a sedilia of two seats with chamfered two-centred arches above. In front of the altar is a marble slab with carvings on its edge of Tudor roses interlaced with leaves; this probably dates to the late 15th century and may have formed part of an altar.

The north transept also has nook shafts to its east and north windows. The stone course under the east windows indicates the former position of an altar. Also on this wall is a piscina with cinquefoiled head. At present standing in the transept is a large stone slab carved on one side with hexagonal tracery, at the centre of which are three daisy-like flowers; its original position and function are not known. Just inside the transept on the west wall is a circa early 17th-century stone fireplace with basket arch, recessed spandrels, and roll, hollow, and roll moulding. A squint in the east corner of the transept gives a view of the altar.

Of the 15th-century rood screen, only two sections of the panelling survive, on which traces of painted figures remain. The benches with carved bench ends probably date from the early 16th century. The front pew on the south side is carved with shields at either end; that on the aisle side has the coat of arms of the Willoughby de Broke family: four horseshoes and five rudders. The arch-braced timber roof dates from the restoration in 1985–86.

Monuments and Fittings

The church contains several fine memorials of varying dates. The most impressive is in an arch on the north side of the sanctuary separating it from the chapel. It consists of two stone effigies of a knight and a lady under an ornate arched canopy. Debate surrounds whom the effigies represent; Sir William de Ferrers and his wife Matilda, who founded the arch-presbytery, would seem the most likely candidates, but as Beatrice Cresswell points out, the clothing is of a different style to that of their representation in the 14th-century window and may well be older. This could suggest the first William de Ferrers, living in 1243, and his wife Isolda. The arch above is cusped under a crocketed gable, the cusps ending in fine heads. In the gable are two censing angels. Stylistic elements of this tomb appear in the St James' Chapel of circa 1320 in Exeter Cathedral.

At the east end of the north transept is the stone effigy of a knight in mail with crossed legs, whose head rests on his helmet. It has been suggested that this represents Sir Reginald de Ferrers, who died probably early in the 14th century. Also in this transept is a fine chest tomb of Purbeck marble; its panelled sides bear shields within wreaths. Its inscription appears to have been erased, but it is reputed to be that of Robert, Second Baron Willoughby de Broke, who died in 1522.

The church is also notable for its 14th-century stained glass in the east window, which among other things depicts Sir William de Ferrers holding a church, and his wife Matilda, with the Latin inscription "Wills Fereys me fecit". This glass is reputedly the oldest in Devon except for a few of the windows in Exeter Cathedral.

The girdle tub font is circa late Norman, built of Hurdwick stone. The girdle is low-set and decorated with nail-head ornament. Above are four projecting volutes, one of which has broken; below is a leaf ornament.

This is a particularly early church for South Devon, little altered since the 15th century, with considerable survival of 13th- and 14th-century fabric. As well as preserving a variety of early windows, it also contains some particularly fine internal features.