Church Of St Julitta

Church of St Julitta

This is a parish church of largely 15th century origin, substantially restored in 1870–72 under the direction of Thomas Hardy, then a young architect working in the Dorchester office of G.R. Crickmay. The commission had originally been given to the Dorchester architect John Hicks in 1867 to survey the church, which had fallen into extreme dilapidation, but Hicks died early in 1869 before work could begin. Hardy's involvement with the restoration would prove transformative, influencing much of his later poetry and leading to his meeting with Emma Gifford, sister-in-law of the rector Rev. C. Holder.

Prior to the 1870s restoration, the church comprised a nave and chancel, west tower, north transept, south aisle and south porch. The restoration was fairly severe: the nave and chancel were demolished and replaced by a smaller north aisle; the north transept was demolished; and the west tower was rebuilt. The south aisle and south porch remained relatively unaltered, with the south aisle subsequently remodelled to form the present nave and chancel. The chronological development of the earlier church is uncertain, as much of the fabric was rebuilt during this restoration, leaving only the 15th century south porch and south aisle largely unchanged.

The south porch and nave are constructed of granite ashlar with a moulded plinth. The north aisle and tower are of local stone rubble with brick dressings. The roof is of slate.

The west tower, dating from 1870–72, is unbuttressed and comprises three stages. It has a battlemented parapet with crocketted finials and a stair turret. The west end features a three-light window and two-light belfry openings with slate louvers.

The north aisle contains two one-light cusped windows flanking two 19th century two-light windows, with a two-light 19th century east window set in a two-centred arched opening.

The chancel has a four-light Perpendicular window with hood mould. The nave contains four three-light Perpendicular windows with cusped heads and hood moulds set in four-centred arches.

The fine 15th century south porch features a battlement parapet and a moulded four-centred arch. The roof is of high quality, comprising a granite waggon roof with three chamfered ribs, carved granite wall plate and bosses. The south door has a two-centred moulded arch with very hollow chamfers and bar and run-out stops.

The interior of the nave and chancel (originally the south aisle) preserves an unceiled 15th century waggon roof with moulded ribs, a carved wall plate (partly renewed on the south side) and carved bosses. A two-centred moulded tower arch connects the nave to the tower. The 15th century arcade was reduced by one bay and now comprises four bays with four-centred arches moulded with a chamfer and cavetto, type A piers (following Pevsner's classification), moulded bases and capitals.

The furnishings are simple, dating from the 19th and early 20th centuries, and include pitch pine pulpit and chancel screen. The chancel contains two Glastonbury-type chairs. A square granite font with hexagonal bowl is also present.

The church contains several memorials of significance. A plaque erected in 1928 commemorates Thomas Hardy. Another plaque, designed by Hardy himself, honours his wife Emma Lavina Hardy (née Gifford), who died at Dorchester in 1912. A further memorial marks Rev. C. Holder, the rector responsible for commissioning the restoration and who lived at the rectory between 1868–1873.

At the west end of the nave are drawings including a copy of Hardy's sketch of the ancient north door accidentally destroyed in 1870, a watercolour drawing by Emma Gifford (1870) showing St Juliot church prior to restoration and depicting the old transept, and a copy of Hardy's sketch of the bench ends. Original drawings are held in Dorset County Museum. Records indicate that a fine set of 15th century carved bench ends, screen and pulpit were removed during the restoration, documented in sketches by Hardy and Emma Gifford and in Polsue's description.

Despite the severe 19th century restoration, the fine 15th century south aisle and south porch remain relatively unaltered. The church holds important literary associations with Thomas Hardy and his wife Emma. Hardy's novel A Pair of Blue Eyes is based on his experiences at St Juliot, and much of his later poetry recalls the surrounding area and his belated love for Emma.